Pet Food Politics: The Chihuahua in the Coal Mine


Posted on Sep 29, 2008 By Tanya Turgeon
by Marion Nestle
University of California Press, 219 pages, $18.95

The story unfolds like a "CSI" script, starring cost-cutting Chinese manufacturer Xuzhou Anying, who exports the toxic ingredients melamine and cyanuric acid to American pet food maker Menu Foods. Menu Foods, in turn, unwittingly distributes the product under such brand name labels as Iams and Eukanuba, which ultimately end up in dog and cat food bowls across America. Add the FDA, scientists at Cornell Laboratories, and hundreds of victims, and you've got yourself a plot. If only it was fiction.

By May 23, 2007, more than a hundred brands of pet food were pulled from store shelves after thousands of dogs and cats died from kidney or renal failure. This would be the beginning of a consumer nightmare involving politics, government safety agencies, and international trade relations.
 
As a self-proclaimed food activist and Professor of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health, Marion Nestle could not be a better advocate for pet parents and the American consumer. In her newest book, "Pet Food Politics," Nestle courageously attempts to make sense out of this largest pet food recall in American history. Charts, graphs, tables, timelines, and pages of notes attempt to simplify her research and reiterate her results, but are more effective as a visual reminder of just how daunting a task it is - especially when each of the dozens of companies involved are spread over continents and quick to point the finger at someone else.

More than a few of Nestle's findings are shocking: The FDA, responsible for the standards of most American food, does not have the authority to order a recall; it can only suggest one. Despite the globalization of food in this 21st century, the United States still follows safety standards set in the 1950s. The loss of life is appalling: In addition to the cats and dogs who died from tainted food, more animals were sacrificed as test subjects to figure out the problem; and in China on July 10, 2007 a Chinese food official linked to the case was actually put to death.

Thanks to media attention and Internet bloggers, news of the recall spread to all corners of the 50 states. Yet a year after the incident, this book continues to expose ongoing litigation and lesser-known ramifications, such as the potentially contaminated human food supply (apparently the discarded pet food was fed to livestock, a not-uncommon practice). Nestle concludes as only an optimist could, noting that the incident must serve as a catalyst for needed regulation reform not only in China, but here at home. But no matter how deep into the political she delves, Nestle never loses sight of the true victims: the dogs and cats who lost their lives, and the people who love them.
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